Navy Suit Part 1 - Vogue 1707

I've started a project, I'm going to make a suit. Well at least a 'vest and pants' combo.

"Is that what you are calling it? A vest?" asked Mr B.

"Sleeveless jacket? It's a bit of a mouthful"

"Mmm, ok"

I've not owned a suit since my final year at university. It was from Dorothy Perkins and I hated it. My mother thought I should have one for interviews. I never wore the jacket (don't tell her) the fabric was horrible and it didn't even vaguely fit, the skirt didn't fair much better. I feel bad that she used up loads of nectar points on it. I'm not sure why, over twenty years later, I now feel the need for a suit but Vogue 1707 just really caught my imagination.

I'm making views B and D but since I've still not mastered trouser fitting I thought I'd best make a toile. 

I cut a straight size 14 as that's what my current waist and hip measurements suggested, or at least if I measure my hips where Vogue think they are.

I cut view C for a laugh (and because I hardly had any scrap fabric left) and can confirm knee length shorts are not my thing! The fit was pretty good considering at my widest point is a lot lower and more like a 16. I guess the loose-fit is helpful however the waistband was gaping a lot, particularly at the back.

I did a little googling about how to draft a curved waistband but in the end just went for it.

I took 1 cm from each front and 1 inch out of the back (just use what ever units make the sums easier) by removing two lots of 1/4". I then split the waistband into two pattern pieces.

This is now the best fitting waistband I've ever had! I'm really pleased. I'm a little disappointed that the pattern doesn't include a proper fly but I can borrow one from another pattern.

On to view B, I ordered some really cheap polycotton sheeting (which is weirdly sticky, perhaps overdressed?). I know that a size 12 bodice with a 1" SBA and 1/2" narrow shoulder adjustment usually does the trick so decided to adjust the front piece before I started. I also blended from a 12 at the waist to 14 at the hip.

I can't find a sensible tutorial for a bust adjustment when there is only a waist dart and I've found lots of tutorials change either the waist size or side seam length (and pretend they haven't) and I didn't want to make any changes there. So I winged it and accidentally carried out a 1/2" narrow shoulder adjustment at the same time. So here you go, a very specific pattern adjustment...

If you want me talk you through how to do this exact change give me a shout!

I used a dart to narrow the shoulder at the back, copying one from a vintage pattern.

Again a surprisingly good result, just a bit baggy at the lower back armhole.

I thought that might be fixed by taking a 1/2" wedge out the side back piece.

My luck held, you can see the adjustment on the right below.

I'm not going to bother with the fake pocket flaps (or the buttons below the bust) as I don't think there's any chance of them lying flat on my hips. I think I've figured out how to move the buttonholes to be in the waist seam which I think makes more sense placement wise and will mean I don't have to make buttonholes and potentially ruin the whole thing.

So I think I'm good to go, except I have no navy thread left!