Trousers! Part 1

I want a pair of well fitting trousers.

I'm going to have them by the time I'm 40, this gives me just over a year - hopefully I won't need quite this much time.

I've have made trousers before but these trousers are going to be slim fitting, they will not gape at the waist, they will not be baggy at the back of my thighs nor tight at the front and they will not be too tight across my behind.  They will be amazing!

I've made a start.  I'm already frustrated.

I'm using Vogue 1560, mainly because I like Vogue patterns and these are roughly the look I'm going for.

So let's start with measurements.  My natural waist is about 26" (a size 12), my hip measurement (or at least where Vogue thinks my hip would be) is 38" and at my fullest I'm more like 40" or 41" (I carry most of this extra quite low and at the back).

I started with a size 14 as this pattern sits below the waist and I'm so used to things not fitting at my waist that I can't bear anything too tight.  I thought I had a "full butt" so started with this adjustment.  This was not good, the extra room was added way too high up and looked very puffy.

I did a bit more research and came around to thinking I had a "low butt" so scooped out the back crotch curve to make it more j shaped on the same muslin.  This helped a lot but also takes out much needed fabric.

For attempt number two I went back to the size 14 and just scooped out the back curve.  This was no better (or worse), I still had the tightness at the base of my bottom.  I didn't take any photos of this, I was too busy cutting in to it.

For muslin number three I took a wedge out of the front crotch curve and added a wedge to the back - I also added a little on to the hips.  This was no better.

I posted this as a work in progress on pattern review and asked for help on Instagram.

Those pattern review members are great for technical help, they do not pull any punches, but many suggested that I should take a break (or give a different brand a go, or that pants fitting was 'hard').

I set the muslins aside for a few days and read through all the comments and suggested reading instead.

Then I made an error on Instagram.  I was asked if I'd made a "flat butt adjustment" and I replied that I had - confusing it with the scooping out I had done.  I don't have a flat bottom.  I looked up the adjustment anyway and discovered it removes the excess in exactly the place I need it.  It doesn't seem to be the reverse of a full butt adjustment. So I tried a reverse flat butt adjustment for my final muslin.  Final in that I am now out of fabric.

And its the best one yet! I can now pinch out a little fabric down each side seam and they don't look too bad. There are wrinkles, yes, but I need ease to sit down.  More importantly they feel good.

So what's next?  I'm aware that my toile fabric is quite stiff so I think I'm going to try a wearable pair next.  I haven't quite fixed the front, I think I just need to unscoop the crotch curve a little, and I think the darts at the back could do with a little work. 

But first I'm going to make a dress.  Anything that doesn't have a crotch curve!

Please give me any advice and encouragement you feel you can offer.

Sorry for all the pictures of my rear.